Do you have FANCY shirts? 2011-12-08

My favorite shirt at the moment is Robert Graham. . . But preferences change quickly.  What I do know is often these cotton shirts can cost $200, $300, $400+ each!  That is quite an investment.


The best deal at your local drycleaner is cleaning a standard men's cotton dress shirt.  In the industry it's known as a "commercial laundry."  However, I learned a long time ago that everything has a trade off.  In this case it is the wear and tear on your shirts.  And if you have fancy shirts, you may want to reconsider having them cleaned this way.

Better cleaners will scrub the collars and cuffs before putting your shirt in the wash.  All cleaners will wash the shirts (detergents may vary) and then press the shirt.  I do not call it ironing because it is not ironing.  These shirts will not go into a dryer.  They are dried by the pressing process which is a big hot metal plate, the size of a standard mans shirt, that clamps down on the shirt.  This results in a crisp smooth finish that many people love.  However it is hard on the shirt.  The life of the shirt that is cleaned this way is between 36 and 52 washings. 

Any shirt with fancy buttons or snaps, tapering, loose plackets can be damaged by this process.  Many shirt materials such as corduroy, linen, seersucker or flannel cannot be processed this way without being damaged (or looking really bad) and only shirts that fit on the special machine can be processed this way.
  
When I was first entering this industry I had the opportunity to visited the New York Turnbull & Asser store (where they make fancy shirts.)  I asked them "why they put those little bubble in the tip of the collar,  when all commercial laundry equipment just flattens it right out?!"

By the look on the associates face, I had just said something horrible. 
It was clear he thought the drycleaner (me!) was irresponsibly cleaning their shirts.  The Turnbull & Asser people fully expect that every shirt would be cold water wash, gently dried and hand ironed.  This service is often 3 times as expensive, or more!

So here is a HUGE disconnect between the maker of the clothes and the cleaner.  I believe in an effort to provide value, the cleaner has unknowingly done a disservice to their customers.

So how much should you pay to have your shirts cleaned?
Well, that depends on your preferences an how long you want them to last. 

What is your time worth?  Hand ironing takes time, and time is one resource that we can't get back!
When in doubt, ask your cleaner - we are here to help you take care of your wardrobe.
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Clothing Storage Tip 2011-08-18

Last night I was at dinner and the subject of drycleaning came up.
We were discussing the basics when I mentioned that you should never store your clothes in the plastic bag that the drycleaner puts over your clothes. That bag is just meant to protect your clothes on the journey from the cleaners to your closet.

My friends were so surprised by my statement, I thought maybe I should tell more people.

I can think of three major reasons why you should never to store your clothes in plastic (drycleaners call it poly)

1. The plastic that drycleaners put on your clothes is a petroleum product. It is a chemical that outgasses. These gasses can and will permeate your clothes. I have had customers bring clothes back because of the unpleasant odor. They believed it was a residual drycleaning solvent smell. I had to assure them that we do not use traditional drycleaning solvent - so drycleaning chemicals were not the cause of the odor.

2. The plastic captures moisture that can foster the growth of molds and/or mildew. These can ruin your clothes and infest your closet!

3. The bag can trap atmospheric gasses that can cause color change on your garments over time. Fume fading often hapens in closets over time - but leaving your items in the plastic will accellerate this process

How should you store your items?

If it is heavy, like a bulky sweater or knit dress. Don't store it on a hanger. Gravity does a lot of damage! I like to roll the items with a piece of acid free tissue and wrap it in a clean peice of material - like an old pillow case.

In the closet, that same pillow case works wonders. Cut a hole in the top and put it over the item - it protects it from light and dust and will cause no harm. A clean sheet will also do the trick.

And perhaps the most important question. . . . what to do with all that plastic?
Film plastic is not currently being recycled in most areas - so before putting it in the recycle bin - you may want to call and make sure it is being accepted and not just put in the land fill. I always recommend giving it back to the cleaners. The better ones have a recycling plan, and if they don't - the more people that return the plastic, the more likely they will be to consider it.

Check out my blog "take the plastic back" from a few years ago:

Take the Plastic Back!

Thanks - and have a great day! (more...)

Save Money On Your Wardrobe 2009-03-07

It seems that everyone is feeling the pinch of our downward economy. Talk of doom and gloom is all around. It looks like 2009 will be a bad year for most of us financially.

So it is natural that we are all watching our spending. I have noticed that there are fewer people out at the restaurants during the week and stores seem to be closing daily. If you are watching your finances, you probably want to make all your investments last, including your clothing investment.

I have noticed a significant drop in clothes going to the drycleaners. I have talked with cleaners around the country and the trend is everywhere. While I understand why many people have no choice but to reduce spending, cleaning clothing after use is still the best investment for your clothes. As long as you are conscientious, and follow care labels and detergent directions cleaning your clothes yourself is a much better option than just wearing them more frequently between cleaning, or not cleaning them and putting them in their closet.

If you want your garments to last and look sharp like when you bought them, ALWAYS clean them after wearing. When you store soiled garments, many things can happen. Also keep in mind that just because a garment looks clean, it may not be.

Please, if you want your garments to last, the important thing to remember is you will almost always clean garments after you wear them. How you clean them is up to you.

3 Common Types of Damage Caused by NOT Cleaning After Wear:

1. Body oils are often not readily visible, but perspiration and other things that we exude from our pores are often acidic and damage fibers over time. This can create holes or color loss. Men's shirt collars can be especially problematic. Those oils around the neck may be nearly invisible, but if they have time to oxidize, the shirt may not recover!
2. Some spills like white whine or 7up dry completely clear. However, if they are not removed they will oxidize and turn brown the same way an apple turns brown after you take a bite and leave it out. Once these stains turn brown they are very difficult, and sometimes impossible to remove.
3. Insects such as moths are really after the soils in the cloths, and they will cause damage.

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Why you should read Garment Care Labels 2009-03-20

Ever wonder what those strange symbols are in the labels of your garments?

Well you should! Taking just a minute to review that label may make the difference between a favorite peice and a nightmare at your drycleaners!
One of the best tips I can give you is ALWAYS look at the label before you make a purchase . . . For example; Prada has just come out with several gorgeous pieces - if you look at the label it says "do not dryclean, do not wash, no steam." If you get any soil or spills on this item, it very likely may be the end of the garments life.

$500 is a lot to spend for a garment you will only be able to wear a handful of times. You may still want to purchase the item (they are gorgeous!). And now you are making a fully informed decision.

In the US, garment care labeling is regulated by the Federal Trade Commission. They REQUIRE manufacturers to list at least one acceptable means of care for the garment. NOTE: There is NO requirement that the label needs to be correct, there is NO requirement to indicate what should not be done to clean the item ("Do no dryclean" for example). However, even with these shortcomings, at least in the US, we have care labels. Other countries often have no care/content label at all.

Better dryceaners will always read care labels. However, because of the shortcomings listed above, they may not always follow them exactly. They are really used as a guideline. For example, many silk and some cashmere sweaters can be cleaned with water. They feel and look wonderful when cleaned that way properly. However the label may have said "dryclean". BEWARE - the water temp, agitation and detergents must be carefully controlled. I am not suggesting you throw your cashmere sweater in the washer with some Woolite!

So now onto explaining how to read those little labels.
A circle typically indicates drycleaning. Letters inside the circle represent the type of drycleaning solvent. Tub shaped symbols are often a form of machine or hand washing.
Numbers within the tub represent temperature in degrees Celsius. The iron symbol of course relates to ironing and the dots inside the iron correlate to temperature. An "X" over any of these symbols prohibits the use of that process.
There are some fabrics that tend to be difficult to care for regardless of the care label and require special precaution. These include:

1. Sueded or Sand washed Silk (think Tommy Bahama)
2. Appliqued, beaded or otherwise embellished garments (I once had a metal piece that melted in the dryclean machine! I still wonder what that "metal" was made of!)
3. Brightly died pigskin sued (it cannot be repainted like leather)
4. Printed fabrics that only have print on on side

Better drycleaners use creative cleaning methods not normally in use by conventional drycleaners. They also have considerable ongoing training for new materials and experience. There is no substitute for desire and experience

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What do you Wear to a Recession? 2009-04-05

The fastest growing clothing retailer in that area is Goodwill Industries!
This is from an article in The National Clothesline (http://www.natclo.com/0904/content.htm) that cites the Chicago Tribune.

The article also stated that Americans own more clothes than any people on the planet!

Contrary to the trend among other retailers who are scaling back and even closing stores, Goodwill plans on opening 5 new stores in the area this year. Breaking from the mold of its appeal to edgy art students and hard-luck hobo's. And it appears to be working. While sales at major chain stores fell 2% during the last three months of 2008, Goodwill store sales in southeastern Wisconsin and metropolitan Chicago rose 8%!

I googled the head line "What do you wear to a recession?" and to my surprise, there were at least 5 news articles with this headline (including: http://www.observer.com/2008/arts-culture/crashion-what-wear-recession). Perhaps one silver lining of our current economic turmoil will be the acceptance of second hand purchases! Not only is it easier on our pocketbooks, it is good for the planet - in my opinion, new items always impact our planet more than reusing items. After all, where does your old clothing go if no one buys second hand? By giving clothes a 2nd life, we are promoting sustainable living.

Consignment shops come in many varieties - you can find couture used clothing or typical thrift store fare. Often, when you donate, they will give you a receipt for tax purposes.

I have a few thoughts on this trend:

1. When you buy 2nd hand clothing, send it to your cleaner before wearing. Many thrift stores cannot afford to clean clothes before putting them for sale.
2. If you are donating - please send clean items (see #1)
3. If you are uneasy about going to a 2nd hand shop, consider having a clothing swap party. Everyone can bring items from their closet they no longer wear (I know I have lots), and make a party out of it!

Some cleaners will accept clothing donations, clean them at no charge and then distribute the clothing to different organizations. Ask your current cleaner for advise.

They say that difficult economic times foster creativity and new business models. I hope that this trend will continue after our recovery:-)

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